You probably know by now that Scarlett Gasque was born from a love of the glamour girls of the 1940s and 1950s – a time where stockings and suspender belts were all the rage thanks to pin-up art. But have you ever wondered how stockings, tights and other types of hosiery came to be?
In this blog, we’ll walk through the history of hosiery, looking at how it started, how it’s changed, and how it came to be such an integral part of lingerie styles during the 20th Century and beyond. So pull your stockings up and let’s get stuck in…
How hosiery began…
According to historians, the earliest iterations of hosiery were worn by cavemen during the Stone Age (yes, about 160,000 years ago!). These early humans wrapped animal skins around their feet for warmth and tied them at the ankle. However, ancient civilisations like the ancient Egyptians were the first to extend these beyond the ankle and up the leg. Rather than using animal skins, they used tightly woven linen wraps to do this, which some historians say are a precursor to the stockings we know and love today.
The concept of hosiery continued to evolve across ancient cultures. In the 8th Century BC, the ancient Greeks created “piloi”, a type of foot covering made from matted animal hair, and they actually wore it under their sandals, much like how we wear hosiery under footwear today. The ancient Romans progressed foot coverings further – in the 1st Century AD, they started fashioning crude socks from strips of leather or woven fabric.
The earliest pair of fully fashioned socks date back to around 500 AD. Found in a tomb in Antinoe, Egypt, these socks were woven from wool and had a fitted heel and a drawstring top. It's thought that socks like this were only worn by the wealthiest nobles as they were really time-consuming to make in pre-industrial times.
The birth of stockings…
It wasn’t until the medieval period that hosiery as we understand it today was popularised. The first stockings were called “hose” and worn almost exclusively by men! By the twelfth century, hose were a staple across Europe for the majority of men, regardless of class.
But how did the term ‘hose’ evolve into ‘stockings’? The word “stock” is an archaic term that once meant “the bottom part of the leg” and it’s thought that that’s how stockings got their name. These close-fitting, sock-type garments cover the leg from the foot upwards, to above the knee or as high as the thigh. While the initial term "hose" laid the foundation, the specific term "stockings" came later, highlighting both the garment's function and its design.
During this period, stockings weren’t elasticated (elastic hadn’t been invented yet!) so they needed to be held up by a garter or tied to another piece of clothing in order to stay up. They were popular with noblemen especially, as they allowed for better mobility on horseback than long tunics or robes.
From practical to a fashion-statement…
During the Renaissance period, hosiery became a canvas for intricate embroidery and luxurious fabrics. Noblewomen as well as men started to adorn their legs with woven stockings made of silk and wool and this marked the beginning of hosiery as a fashion statement rather than simply for practicality or warmth.
Queen Elizabeth I of England was one of the first noblewomen to have worn stockings and she helped popularise them among the elite. The invention of the knitting machine in 1589 also furthered their popularity, as it meant they could be produced more efficiently than the time-consuming method of weaving by hand. The invention of the knitting machine meant that stockings could be made up to six times faster than before!
Men's fashion also saw a significant shift during this time period, as they donned tighter-fitting stockings that showed off the leg. Hosiery was no longer just a practical garment to improve your chances in battle; it was a symbol of extravagance and sophistication.
Trousers for men, stockings for women…
Knitted stockings paired with breeches remained popular amongst men for some time until long trousers became the norm at the start of the Industrial Revolution. It was at that time that attitudes shifted and stockings started to be seen as garments that were worn almost exclusively by women.
During the Industrial Revolution, production techniques and machinery advanced, which supported the large-scale manufacture of stockings and socks. This made hosiery more affordable and accessible to various social classes. In Britain, hosiery became an essential part of everyday attire, particularly among the Victorians.
Women didn’t tend to show off their stockings like men had done previously, as modesty was favoured during the Victorian era. Despite this, 18th and 19th Century stockings were sometimes quite fancy – they were made to match the rest of a woman’s outfit or her shoes. Cotton also joined silk, wool and linen as a popular and comfortable material choice for hosiery during this time.
In 1803, the first pair of tights was created to replace petticoats, offering full leg coverage for modesty and warmth. However, Victorian society considered tights a lewd replacement for petticoats, and stockings remained the preferred option until tights gained popularity in the 1950s.
Flappers and the Roaring Twenties…
Post-World War One, the flappers of the Roaring Twenties started to redefine female fashion. Their hair got shorter, they started smoking in public, and the hemlines of their dresses moved higher and higher, from the ankle to above the knee. At first this was seen as scandalous, but it soon became a popular trend…
These changes meant that more leg was on display day to day, and stockings were designed to be seen once again. Preferred materials included silk and the newly introduced rayon, which provided a sheen and smooth finish that was considered more fashionable and attractive.
Hosiery at this time often featured decorative elements such as seams, embroidery and lace tops to make them a focal point of the outfit. Flesh-toned stockings also became popular, as they created the illusion of bare legs while still offering coverage. Flappers relied on garters, suspender belts, elasticised stockings, and roll garters to keep their stockings in place. Suspender belts were worn around the waist or hips and had attached straps with clips that hooked onto the tops of the stockings. They provided a more secure and comfortable option compared to thigh garters alone.
The demand for fashionable hosiery led to increased production and commercialisation. Advertisements and magazines began to feature hosiery prominently, emphasising its importance in modern women’s wardrobes across America and Europe. Flappers not only changed how hosiery was worn and perceived but also played a crucial role in transforming it into a key fashion accessory, leading to lasting changes in societal norms.
The invention of nylon…
The 20th Century witnessed another complete hosiery revolution driven by the invention of nylon. This synthetic fibre was invented by Wallace Carothers and his team at DuPont in 1935 and introduced to the public at the 1939 New York World's Fair. It offered several advantages over traditional materials like silk.
Nylon stockings were more affordable, durable and sheer, making them an instant hit among women worldwide. The material is also elastic which meant stockings could better conform to the shape of the leg, providing a smoother and more flattering fit. "Nylons" became synonymous with elegance and femininity.
Unfortunately during World War II, nylon production was diverted to the war effort, which means nylon stockings were rationed and many women were unable to get their hands on their new favourite piece of clothing. Many turned to creative solutions like drawing seams down the back of their legs to mimic the look of stockings and a new invention, liquid stockings, also became popular. Liquid stockings aren’t too far from what we call fake tan today. After D-Day, there were even riots when nylon stockings became available again!
Pin-up girls in sexy stockings
During and post-war, it was the beloved pin-up girls who popularised stockings further. They flaunted their shapely legs in stockings and suspender belts, and sparked a desire in women everywhere to emulate their look, making them a must-have accessory.
Advertisers quickly took note, using pin-up girls in hosiery ads to boost sales and cement the idea that stockings were the secret ingredient to a knockout outfit. This helped societal attitudes towards modesty continue to relax. To learn more about the importance of pin-up girls, check out our blog.
As stockings began to be seen as more seductive, lingerie manufacturers started offering coordinated lingerie sets that included bras, panties, suspender belts (also known as garter belts) and stockings, which explains why stockings are sometimes viewed as bedroom-only attire today.
From Panti-Legs to tights…
In 1958, French scientist Allen Gant patented tights as Panti-Legs, and they soon gained popularity when mini skirts became the newest fashion craze in the 1960s. While Panti-Legs was the original brand name for this type of legwear, “tights” eventually became the generic term used to refer to the garment and they actually overtook stockings popularity-wise at this time, capturing 70% of the hosiery market share!
Mary Quant's tights designs of this period further revolutionised fashion. She introduced vibrant and playful Mod style tights that captured the era's spirit of youthful rebellion. She embraced bold hues such as bright reds, blues, yellows and greens and her tights often featured geometric patterns, stripes and polka dots. They were a stark departure from the skin-coloured stockings that had been the favourite a couple of decades before. Mary Quant's designs not only transformed women's hosiery but also contributed to a broader cultural shift towards more expressive and individualistic fashion choices during the 1960s and beyond.
In the 1970s and 1980s, fishnet tights emerged as integral to punk and Goth styles, a trend that remains popular today. The 1975 cult classic film, Rocky Horror Picture Show, famously featured nearly every character adorned in fishnets and Tim Curry’s portrayal of Dr. Frank-N-Furter was particularly influential in associating this type of hosiery with edgy, provocative fashion.
By the early 1990s black and opaque tights were the most popular and they remain popular today, especially for workwear. Nude and natural-toned tights also became acceptable again, although many younger women chose to abandon tights altogether in this decade, preferring to show off their natural legs.
Hosiery in the 21st Century…
Moving into the 2000s to now, hosiery has maintained its relevance in women’s fashion despite the trend of bare legs booming. There has been a resurgence in sheer tights, particularly in nude shades that offer a natural look, as well as tights with intricate patterns such as floral motifs and animal prints. Recent trends such as The Coquette Aesthetic have also popularised stockings once again.
In recent years, hosiery technology has advanced massively and you can now find products like body-toning control top tights, hold ups, and even moisturise-wicking and massaging tights! Hosiery has become a really versatile accessory that can transform an outfit, whether paired with skirts and dresses or layered under shorts and oversized shirts for a more casual look. Stockings are also an integral part of popular lingerie styles today.
Vintage stockings need the perfect suspender!
At Scarlett Gasque, we draw inspiration from the timeless appeal of pin-up aesthetics and we absolutely adore classic hosiery styles.
Our exquisite range of suspender belts pair perfectly with vintage stockings and traditional nylons, as well as more modern stocking styles. Our corsets and waspies also feature removable suspender straps to hold up stockings or pair with gorgeous tights, however you see fit!
Explore our corsets, waspies and suspender belts now and take your hosiery to the next level…
